The Pope in Sneakers: How Leo XIV Became Fashion’s Most Unlikely Icon

The most talked-about outfit of 2026 wasn’t unveiled on a Paris runway or a red carpet in Beverly Hills. It was worn by a 70-year-old pontiff in a simple white cassock, accessorized with a pair of Nike trainers and a well-worn leather briefcase. When Vanity Fair released its first best-dressed list in a decade, the usual suspects—Hollywood A-listers, Grammy-winning pop stars, and the occasional royal—filled the ranks. But nestled among the sequins and tailored tuxedos was an entrant no one saw coming: Pope Leo XIV. The magazine didn’t just include him; it placed him in its “originals” division, reserved for “the most outlandish and innovative dressers” with “a singular point of view.” And honestly? They’re not wrong.

The Chicago-born pontiff has spent the past year redefining what papal style means—and the fashion world is paying attention. Vanity Fair’s style correspondent, José Criales-Unzueta, praised Leo for taking papal dressing “to heavenly heights,” noting the “innate Americanness” of his approach. Think about it: a man who could wear anything—literally anything, from gold-embroidered vestments to ermine-trimmed capes—chooses a white cassock, black oxfords (not the traditional red slippers), and a discontinued Swiss quartz watch. He’s been spotted in a White Sox baseball cap perched atop his papal cap during a general audience in St. Peter’s Square. He carries his own battered briefcase, a relic of his pre-papal life, and pairs it all with sneakers that scream “I have somewhere to be.” It’s not just a style statement; it’s a manifesto.

What makes this so fascinating isn’t just the wardrobe—it’s the craftsmanship and heritage behind it. For formal occasions, Leo turns to Italian designer Filippo Sorcinelli, the same artisan who created liturgical vestments for Popes Benedict XVI and Francis. Sorcinelli’s work is bespoke in the truest sense: hand-stitched, meticulously tailored, and steeped in centuries of Vatican tradition. But Leo’s genius lies in the contrast. He’ll wear a Sorcinelli masterpiece one day, then show up the next in a $60 pair of Nikes. That juxtaposition—between the sacred and the street, the ancient and the everyday—is exactly what makes him so compelling. And it’s not lost on the fashion elite. From Christian Lacroix’s ecclesiastical riffing in the ’80s to the Met’s Heavenly Bodies exhibition in 2018, the papacy has long been a wellspring of inspiration. As Criales-Unzueta puts it, “There is so much to take in and so much to find inspiration in.” Leo isn’t just wearing clothes; he’s curating a narrative.

This isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s a masterclass in soft power. The Catholic Church, with its long mastery of symbolism and optics, is experiencing a Gen Z-driven uptick, and Leo is at the center of it. He’s criticized AI, called for peace, and maintained an active Instagram presence. He knows exactly what he’s doing. “He and the people surrounding him are very savvy,” says Carol Richardson, a professor of early modern art history at the University of Edinburgh. “The majority will think it’s fun. They will like the fact it has been noticed how busy he is, that he has to wear trainers to run around in. That he is working.” It’s a brilliant move: by dressing like a man on a mission, he’s signaling that the Vatican isn’t stuck in the past—it’s sprinting into the future. Robert Orsi, a professor of religious studies at Northwestern, calls the world’s embrace of this pope “stunning,” pointing to Leo’s resonance with a generation that values authenticity over pomp.

So what does this signal about wealth, taste, and the luxury market? For the ultra-wealthy, it’s a reminder that true style isn’t about logos or price tags—it’s about confidence. Leo XIV doesn’t need a $5,000 suit to make an impact; he has the authority of a global institution behind him. But for those who want to channel a fraction of that power, the takeaway is clear: invest in pieces that tell a story. A bespoke suit from Sorcinelli, a vintage watch with a history, even a pair of well-worn sneakers—these are the elements of a wardrobe that transcends trends. The fashion world is taking notes. Vanity Fair’s global editorial director, Mark Guiducci, calls the magazine “a pantheon” of personalities, and Leo’s inclusion is a testament to his ability to occupy that space without compromising his identity. He’s not trying to be fashionable; he’s just being himself—and that, paradoxically, is the most fashionable thing of all.

Looking ahead, expect more of this. Leo XIV has already reshaped the visual language of the papacy, and his influence will only grow. Watch for collaborations between the Vatican and high-end designers, or perhaps a resurgence of minimalist white and black in menswear collections. The sneaker-with-cassock look is already being discussed in Milan and Paris. And for the rest of us? The lesson is beautifully simple: style is a tool, not a trophy. Wear what serves your mission, and let the world catch up. The Pope did—and the world is still trying to keep pace.